COTELETTES DE VEAU EN PAPILOTES (Veal Cutlets In Paper Cases)

These famous veal cutlets, wrapped in paper, are said to be the invention of MADAME DE MAINTENON and her brother, THE BARON D'AUBIGNY, who like many notable people in the time of LOUIS XIV and LOUIS XV, dabbled in cookery and spent much time experimenting and inventing new dishes.

Ingredients :

• veals cutlets
• mushrooms
• shallots
• 1 small onion
• thin slices of lean ham
• butter
• salad oil
• salt
• pepper
• a few sheets of plain foolscap paper

Method :

1. The veal cutlets should be trimmed, and the bone sawed, so as to leave only about 1 inch protruding from the cutlet.
2. Cook the cutlets in butter in a frying pan, till well browned on both sides, seasoning with salt and pepper.
3. Remove from the saucepan when done, and drain.
4. On each cutlet spread a little of the following mixture; Chopped the onion and shallots very finely and cook in hot butter and oil, but without browning.
5. When they are beginning to get a golden color, add the finely chopped mushrooms, and cook for about 10 minutes, mixing all well, ans seasoning with a little salt and pepper.
6. Cut the sheets of foolscap paper in the shape of large heart, the center of the heart being where the sheet is folded.
7. Cut this out neatly, then open, and paint all over with salad oil.
8. Lay a slice of lean ham on one side of the paper, spread a little of mushrooms and shallot mixture over it, then over this place the cutlet, the fleshy part of the cutlet towards the upper part of the heart, and the bone pointing downwards.
9. Cover with slice of ham.
10. Fold the other side of the paper over the cutlet, and now fold the edges over, crinkling them, so that the case thus formed will not come undone.
11. Put the cutlets, thus packed, on a baking tin, and place for a few minutes only in a modertae oven, till the paper begins to brown.
12. Serve the cutlets at once, on a hot dish, in their paper cases.

LA BLANQUETTE DE VEAU (White Veal Stew)

This is one of the best known French classical dishes, and is of very ancient origin. There are various kinds of BLANQUETTES, but I give the authentic one known as " a l'ancienne"

Ingredients : (FOR 6 TO 8 PEOPLE)

• 2 1/2 lbs. of veal tendrons or leg or ribs
• 1 quart of cold water
• 1 large onion stuck with 1 clove
• 5 tablespoons of choppet carrot
• mixed herbs
• a small piece of celery
• a little less than 1 tablespoon of salt

FOR THE SAUCE

• 3 tablespoons of butter
• 1/4 cup of flour
• 3/4 pint of veal stock
• mushrooms peeling
• the yolks of 2 eggs
• 6 tablespoons of cream
• the juice of 1 lemon
• 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley

FOR GARNISH

• 8 mushrooms of the same size
• about 12 pickling onios
• 2 tablespoons of butter

Method :

1. Put the veal in a saucepan and cover with the water.
2. Add the salt.
3. Bring to the boil gradually and skim very carefully.
4. When the scum has ceased to rise, add the vegetables and herbs.
5. Bring to the boil, put the lid on the saucepan, leaving a small opening, and simmer gently for 1 hour or a little more.
6. The meat should be tender and yet firm.
7. Meanwhile, boil the mushrooms in a little water over a quick fire till tender, and cook the onions in butter, butwithout browning.
8. Make the sauce by putting the butter in a saucepan and, when melted, adding the flour and stirring over a very slow fire for 10 minutes, but without browning in the slightest.
9. Then dilute gradually with the strained veal stock, stirring well.
10. Bring to the boil, add the mushrooms peeling, and a few peppercorns.
11. Skim carefully, and add the egg thickening--made by mixing the eggs in a bowl with lemon juice, a few tablespoons of cold STOCK, and adding gradually a few tablespoons of the warm sauce.
12. Add the cream.
13. Now put the pieces of veal in a clean saucepan, pour the strained sauce over them, add the mushrooms, and cook for a few minutes without boiling.
14. Just before serving add the onions.
15. To dish up, put the pieces of veal in the center of the dish, pour the sauce over them and garnish with the mushrooms and onions.
16. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

ESCALOPES DE VEAU A L'OSEILLE (Escalopes Of Veal With Sorrel)

There are innumerable ways of serving and dressing escalopes, and they can be laid on various vegetables purees, besides sorrel, such as spinach, endive, potato, peas, etc., or served with garnish of fresh vegetables--string beans, new carrots, peas, Japan artichokes, saute in butter--or again, they are often served with macaroni, nouilles, etc., and a tomato sauce. They lend themselves, in fact, to all manner at the hands of a chef. At the same time, for everyday purpose they are simple to prepare and quickly cooked, and are excellent when properly done.

Ingredients :

• 3 or 4 lbs. of fillets veal
• sorrel
• flour
• butter
• the yolk of 1 or 2 eggs
• 1 or 2 tablespoons of oil
• fine white breadcrumbs
• salt
• pepper

Method :

1. Cut the fillet into slices just under 1/2 inch thick. and trim of all skin and fat.
2. Give the escalopes an oval shape.
3. Each should weight about about 3 1/2 to 4 ozs.
4. Flatten out with beater, then dip them in flour, coat very evenly with yolk of egg, well seasoned with salt and pepper, and finally with the breadcrumbs.
5. Pat down with the blade of a knife, to make sure that the breadcrumbs will adhere to the meat.
6. Have ready a pan of hot butter, and cook the escalopes for 5 minutes on one side, and 5 on other.
7. When done, they should be a nice golden color. Place on a hot dish on a PUREE OF SORREL.

LE BOEUF EN DAUBE (Beef Stew)

This excellent dish, which comes from Provence originally and has been known for many centuries, is made everywhere in France and is a great PLAT DE MENAGE, or household "stand-by"

Ingredients :

1. 2 lbs. of round beef
2. 1/2 cup of fat bacon diced
3. 4 onions
4. 1 calf's foot
5. a few carrots
6. 2 or 3 tomatoes
7. a few cloves of garlic
8. parsley
9. mixed herbs
10. 1 bayleaf
11. cloves
12. salt
13. pepper
14. 1 pint of red wine
15. a little STOCK
16. 1 tablespoon of salad oil
17. 1 tablespoon of lard

Method :

• Cut the meat in pieces weighing about 3 ozs each.
• Put the oil and lard in a saucepan, with the bacon, cut in dice, the sliced vegetables, the calf's foot, split in half, and finally the meat.
• When the meat and vegetables begin to bronw, add the wine and STOCK, the herbs, and seasoning, bring to the boil, cover the saucepan, and simmer very gently for about 5 hours.
• This dish can be eaten either hot or cold.
• It is delicious when cold, and for this the meat and bone calf's foot should be put in a mould or bowl, and the liquid strained over it.
• It will set in a firm jelly if kept in a cool place.

TOURNEDOS A'LA BEARNAISE (Small Fillets Of Beef A'la Bearnaise)

This succulent way of trimming and cooking fillet of beef is typically French, and is certainly one of most appetizing ways eating this choice cut. This sauces and garnishes which accompany the tournedos are innumerable--Escoffier mentions nearly 100-- but I will content myself with giving one which is very popular, and one which, when cooked, seasoned, and prepared in exactly the right manner, is one of the best dishes France has offer.

Ingredients :

• 3 or 4 lbs. of fillets of beef (cut lengthwise in the French way)
• round of fried bread
• butter
• salt
• pepper
• BEARNAISE SAUCE

Method :

1. Cut the fillet into slices just under 2 inches thick, and trim them into rounds measuring about 3 1/2 inches diameter.
2. Remove every particle of fat or gristle.
3. Shape into rounds, and tie with string, so that when cooked they will retain their shape.
4. Each tournedos should weight about 3 ozs.
5. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and put them in hot butter and oil in a frying pan, on a fairly quick fire.
6. As they should be somewhat underdone inside, cook for 5 minutes on one side, and turn and cooke for 5 minutes on other.
7. If preferred a little more done, allow a minute or so longer.
8. Dress them on rounds of bread, previously fried to a golden tint in butter, and cut slightly bigger than the tournedos.
9. Surround them with POTATOES CHATEAU--potatoes shaped into large olives, seasoned with salt and pepper, and cooked slowly in clarified butter to a golden color, and sprinkled with chopped parsley.
10. Then either put a little of the SAUCE BEARNAISE on each, or hand the sauce around in a gravy boat.

LE BOUILLI (Boiled Beef or Soup Meat)

I have already spoken of this famous and ever-popular dish in the recipes for POT AU VEU (THE STOCK POT). The soup meat is removed from the saucepan, put on a hot dish, surrounded by the vegetables cooked in the STOCK, and a few tablespoons of the STOCK poured over the meat. It is sprinkled with GROS SEL (coarse salt), and the dish garnished with a few sliced GHERKINS. It is usually accompanied by either tomato, PIQUENTE, horseradish, or caper sauce. This is a most excellent dish.